Column
They may be snobs, but Parisians know
how to live
By JEANNETTE BATZ
Paris, direct nonstop round-trip,
for $288. I brought the news to my husband like a hopeful pup nudging a tennis
ball. I dont have any more time off, he reminded me,
shrugging stoically and omitting the fact that, aside from Napoleons tomb
and the Vincentians history, he has no interest whatsoever in visiting
Paris.
I, on the other hand, firmly believe Gypsies switched me at birth
and my true home is in France. So when he added, But you should go,
I gave it only a half-beat, a mere token of conjugal budgetary hesitation,
before I agreed.
Four blissful days later -- four days soaking in the street life,
the flowers, the bistros good cheap wine and the museums priceless
art -- I slumped exhausted on the Metro and started to think.
Thinking, I had found, was easy in Paris. For one thing, people
did it. Routinely, without ado. And not only did they think, but they talked
about what they had thought. To each other. Like in grad school, only more
relaxed.
So I paid homage to Descartes all the way to the Censier-Daubenton
stop, by thinking about thinking. About why the intellectual life was more
valued in Paris than in St. Louis. About how reflection can either be
cultivated or killed. About whether there are ways to say such things without
sounding snobbish and effete.
In America, we look upon cerebral activity as a necessary evil --
something that lets us pass a test to get a promotion or manipulate the stock
market or press a civil lawsuit. Speculative thought we reserve for university
eggheads, smiling indulgently, albeit uncomprehendingly, at their latest
theories -- and privately deeming them masochists.
In Paris, thinking wasnt as painful at all. A cellist was
serenading the subway passengers, and his sweet chords helped plunk my thoughts
into place. If I felt heady and detached, all I had to do was glance down at
the scruffy urbanite terrier bracing himself against the stops. Or the glass
benches and Egyptian art at the Louvre station. Or the Buddha poster at
Jussieu, reminding those who didnt get what they wanted on Sunday to wait
until Monday.
Paris is full of wisdom-seeking -- witness the cafés-philo
all over the city, where strangers meet weekly to chat about lifes
deepest questions. Significantly, Paris is full of sensory pleasures, from the
near-sacramental baguettes and wine to the long, unabashed kisses in the middle
of the street. (I had expected to find that such clichés were only
romanticizations. But people do shop for strawberries and lettuce at the market
stalls; they do buy themselves bunches of daisies on a whim; they do quit early
and enjoy each others company at sidewalk cafés.)
Paris boasts enough sights and sounds and smells to awaken even
the numbest, most overstressed sensorium -- yet the stimuli are deliberately
gentled. Street music doesnt blare or thump; window displays are artful,
not crude hard-sell. Even ambulance sirens keep a singsong rhythm. Shielded
from brutalizing overload, the senses uncurl and stretch languorously. Their
pleasure lets the mind think without turning gray, striving bloodlessly,
shriveling into dry abstraction.
You dont feel forced, in other words, to choose between your
brain and your body. And you are surrounded by inspiration -- talk shows that
probe beneath the surface; bookstores on every corner; beauty valued for its
own sake; selves expressed unabashedly. Artists rent stalls along the Seine;
clowns and musicians and skateboarding kids fill the crooked streets of the
Latin Quarter. And Paris admittedly overburdened socialized system keeps
poverty and homelessness to a minimum, so youre not driven inward. At
least, not the way I often am on the streets of this country: the ugly
capitalist taking refuge in rationalizations; the have going numb to walk among
the have-nots.
In many ways, we who live in the Superpower have made ourselves
invisible to each other. We learn, from self-help books and seminars, how to
greet, make small talk, make eye contact, make nice. But we keep as much
distance as possible. If theres even a tiny empty table available in the
back of the restaurant, were sure as heck not going to sit down right
next to the other couple at the larger table, where a French maitre d
seated me and my mother without a second thought. We glanced nervously at the
couple, sure theyd mind the intrusion. They didnt bat an eye.
Nor did they smile. Parisians dont feel obliged to be sweet
to strangers; instead, they offer a clear-eyed stare that makes you feel like
Sartres Other, objectified by the hostile gaze. After a day of ducking
that gaze, I realized it wasnt hostile at all. Parisians live publicly,
they are curious and they feel no need to avert their eyes. They dont
gush to reassure each other, either. They dont need to; their ritual
dance of courtesy is quite enough.
Everywhere you go, your presence is acknowledged with a cheerful
Bonjour, madame!; your departure eased with the Au
voir that anticipates another meeting. You cant walk into a
boutique and paw disdainfully through the merchandise without first greeting
the proprietess; you cant slink out of anywhere without a proper
goodbye.
It changes how you feel about yourself. And it changes how you
deal with others.
So do the centuries of history that unfold in front of you. So
much of Paris dates to the 1500s that you somehow feel confident of your own
existence. If all of this has endured, human civilization must have some value,
non? Especially when symbols of great faith anchor each place and
square, usually in the form of a grand cathedral, a saints garden or a
medieval stone church.
We resent the French for being arrogant about their culture,
purist about their language. But implicit in that arrogance is the conviction
that they have a culture to be proud of. Steeped in Catholicism, rooted in an
ancient and relatively homogeneous tradition, they have shaped a common
sensibility.
Even the metro stations take their names from holy places, and the
church courtyards serve as sociable moats, lively with boys kicking balls, dogs
walking people, lovers kissing yet again. Concerts are held in the small
cathedrals, while Notre Dame draws the whole world onto her lap.
We hold a few core principles of which I am deeply proud, and
were heirs to a tradition in which civil rights, democracy and
egalitarianism are at least goals. But the ways we lead our individual lives
(for they are not communal in the least) feels more like something to apologize
for. Skipping meals and vacations, working nonstop late into the night,
boasting to our friends that we are too busy to see them. ... A Parisian,
Im now sure, would be appalled.
Its a good thing we dont take time to think.
Or wed be appalled, too.
Jeannette Batz is a senior editor at The Riverfront
Times, an alternative newspaper in St. Louis.
National Catholic Reporter, June 18,
1999
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