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Cover
story Food
for a nation of gulpers
The adjective now most often
connected with food is fast. We have become a nation of gulpers not
taking the time to savor the communion that is a meal. Widespread obesity
demonstrates poor diets in the richest country on earth. As a fast food nation,
critics say, we are poisoning our children at worst; at best, fattening them
and teaching them the wrong values.
Indeed, fast food has infiltrated every corner of American life.
An industry that began with a local hamburger shop in San Bernardino, Calif.,
47 years ago has spread around the world. According to Eric Schlosser, author
of Fast Food Nation: The Dark Side of the All-American Meal, Americans
spent $110 billion in 2000 on fast food, more than on higher education,
personal computers, software or new cars.
Americas service economy
creates 90 percent of all new jobs, and most of those are in the fast food
realm. McDonalds now has 28,000 restaurants worldwide; 2,000 new ones
each year raise the golden arches. One out of every eight workers in the United
States, it is estimated, has been employed by McDonalds. McDonalds
is the worlds largest purchaser of beef, pork and potatoes and second
largest of chicken. Its the largest owner of retail property in the world
and has replaced Coca Cola as the worlds most famous brand. The golden
arches are better known around the world now than the Christian cross,
according to Schlosser.
The dark side of the fast food industry is less well
known, he says. The vast majority of workers in the fast food industry
receive no benefits, learn few skills, exercise little control over their
workplace, quit after a few months. The restaurant industry is now
Americas largest private employer and it pays some of the lowest wages.
The only Americans who consistently earn a lower hourly wage are migrant farm
workers, according to Schlosser.
The spread of fast food represents the greatest revolution in
eating since the discovery of the potato. There is a Kentucky Fried Chicken
franchise a stones throw from the Sphinx in Egypt, a McDonalds in
the Eiffel Tower. The McDonalds franchise recently opened in Pushkin
Square in Moscow is said to be the busiest in the world, selling to babushkas
burgers that look and taste exactly like the ones in Phoenix or Houston.
Food that may look familiar has in fact been completely
reformulated, says Schlosser. Todays fast food conceals
remarkable technological advances behind an ordinary-looking façade.
Much of the taste and aroma of American fast food, for example, is now
manufactured at a series of large chemical plants off the New Jersey
Turnpike. The actual food served is so processed and denatured that these
tactics are necessary.
It has been carefully designed to taste good. That is one of
the main reasons people buy fast food. Its also inexpensive and
convenient, writes Schlosser. But the value meals, the two for one
deals, the free refills of soda give a distorted sense of how much fast food
really costs. The real price never appears on the menu.
One of those hidden costs is a
weight problem. We are becoming a nation of fat behinds and paunchy
stomachs.
Early in the 20th century, the principal causes of death and
disability in the United States were infectious diseases related in part to low
caloric intake. Now, nutritionists point out, many health problems are related
to overconsumption of calories. Overeating, according to Marion Nestle, author
of Food Politics: How the Food Industry Influences Nutrition and Health,
deranges metabolism, makes people overweight and increases the likelihood
of chronic diseases, like hypertension, coronary heart disease,
certain cancers, stroke and others. The calories provided by the U.S.
food supply have increased from 3,300 per capita in 1970 to 3,800 in the late
1990s, an increase of 500 per day.
Our diet is out of balance, Nestle, a professor of
nutrition at New York University, told NCR, and its partly
due to the food industry telling us in a thousand different ways to eat
more, providing ever larger portions of food that is high in calories,
fat and sugar.
The worst aspect of this manipulation is the way it exploits
children, according to Nestle. Food companies view schoolchildren as an
unparalleled marketing opportunity. In exchange for advertising, corporations
contribute resources desperately needed by financially strapped school systems.
They dont stop at advertising either. In 1997, 30 percent of public high
schools sold fast foods from one or another of nine chains.
Nestle advocates the tactics of the international Slow Food
movement, begun in Italy in 1986 (its logo is a snail). Its manifesto urges the
public to rediscover the flavors and savors of regional food cooking and
banish the degrading effects of Fast Food. By our choices, we support or
do not support the current food system every time we eat a meal.
-- Rich Heffern
National Catholic Reporter, May 24,
2002
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